TOYOTA MARK 250G

When big boys roll, they roll heavily.

The Mark X is the car from the oriental coast that has made the whole of Europe run Berserk. On its launch, the German's from Mercedes-ville were in court crying foul that their compressor design had been copy-pasted.

Reports from Japan show that the limousine feature of the Mark X makes it sell more than the power under the bonnet. It is this same sleek design that has made the Toyota Mark X to take the parking lot for the big boys like Audi, BMW and Mercedes.

INTERIOR


If you woke up in a Mark X and someone told you that you were in a Bentley, you would believe unless you saw the label on the steering. This car's interior has been awarded all the space that was taken from your corollas. If you are a boss, this is the car that you should sit in the passenger seat and let your bodyguards stay in the back seat. You will enjoy a thickly padded arm rest, A clear view of a 10 inch DVD screen, enough leg room to comfortably host a cask of wine and if you decide to drive yourself, you will be spoiled with steering controls.



The person that steers a Toyota mark X is definitely a pilot. With buttons all the way from the gear lever through the nose of the dashboard, you will have so many of them, you will feel like you are flying. For the seats, you get to choose between Black and Cream soft leather interiors.

ENGINE
Along with the Toyota Mark X shapely body, you get a 2362cc engine that does not rev when you step on the accelerator peddle. It hums gently. Its like the purr of a cat that is full. This 2.5G is not the ordinary engine. It will do 0 to 100mph in less than 100 seconds. The consumption is economical bearing in mind its competitors are the German guzzlers.

The engine is 6 cylinders just like the BMW 3 series. In fact, if you know how to toe your gas pedal, the BMW will never catch you on a drag race. Its too heavy for the Mark X.

CLEARANCE
When you buy one, please warn your dog not to sleep under it. This thing and the ground are neighbors. This assures you that you can stunt at full-speed and the worst you will get is a skid back to where you were coming from. Don't quote me on that one though.




BUDGET
Please don't buy this car if you write every cost your car incurs on a paper and calculate the expenses at the end of the month. This car needs to be loved the same way you would go out of your way while dating the most beautiful lady in the hood.

Maintenance is relatively pricey since a big engine needs a big glass of Arabian Juice. Service depends on how you use the car. I prefer using it on smooth roads. If you want a rough rider, get a land cruiser.









I am short of time so I have copied the specs of the 2.5G and here they are:

Engine
Engine capacity	2,499 cc
Engine type	V6 DOHC
Compression ratio	12
Bore x Stroke	(83.0 x 77.0) mm
Performance
Power	203 bhp
Torque	243 Nm
Acceleration	unknown
Top speed	203 km/h
Fuel consumption	13 km/L
CO2 emission	unknown
Misc technical data
Transmission	6-speed (A)
Drive type	RWD
Measurements
Vehicle type	Luxury Sedan
Dimensions (L x W x H)	(4730 x 1795 x 1435) mm
Wheelbase	2,850 mm
Min turning radius	5,200 mm
Kerb weight	1,520 kg
Fuel tank capacity	71 L
Brakes
Brakes (Front)	Ventilated disc
Brakes (Rear)	Disc
Suspension
Suspension (Front)	Double Wishbone
Suspension (Rear)	Multi-link

NEWS
Early this year I went to see what China was making as an imitation of the Mark X. They had just computerized the design and they were still trying to re-engineer the Cat eyes of the X to make them a little different. They were also still arguing whether to name it in Cantonese or Mandarin when I got a call from +81 (Toyota Rumor Division). THE MARK X 350S HAD BEEN RELEASED.
 
The 350S is like the S-Class of the Toyota. A standard and trend setter. A higher price and more luxury. It will most likely arrive in Kenya when drug dealers realize it can pass all road blocks without being waved to the side or when the Governors get permission to fly flags. Getting this animal to Kenya will cost you between 5 to 8 million Ksh. Unfortunately, the orders for custom-made in Japan is too high, they won't take any more from Plainsview estate in South B. Wait for the Japs to use it then you can buy if from IBC after it has been reduced to grade 4. Us Kenyans are really good at buying second hands.

So I went to see the 350S. It has a super facelift. The nose looks like a big X. This machine is aimed at giving the Lexus GS 450S a run for its money. 

 The 350S has been given a sportier design and you have a choice of a standard version, a sport version and a premium version. All have the Bi-Xenon clearance lamps and the combined rear lamps. The double exhaust on either side remains and you can get a 2 or 4 wheel drive.

I have driven the 350S and it gives a better feel than the Lexus GS450. The sport version makes you feel like racing to Nakuru every Friday evening. Its less business and more pleasure with more libido(Engine Power).

Toyota Avensis through the years

Rumours have emerged that Toyota is planning to remove the Avensis from its new car range by the end of the decade. According to sources at BusinessDay, the Japanese car maker looks set to call time on the Avensis by 2020, switching attention to launching a new vehicle into the mid-sized car market. While no official announcement has been made by Toyota yet, the news provides the perfect opportunity to summarise what has made the Avensis so memorable over the last 17 years. Here’s a look at the Toyota Avensis story to date:

The early days

The Toyota Avensis raced onto the scene back in 1997 as a reliable and exceptionally designed alternative to the popular Ford Mondeo. Available as a hatchback, a saloon and an estate, the car caught the eye because of its appealing emissions rating and standout level of performance. Families found plenty to love about the original Avensis, not least the spacious interior that enabled parents and children to be comfortable throughout their ride from A to B. On top of all of this, there was plenty of joy to be had while driving the first generation Avensis. This is because a smooth clutch combined with a light gear change kept stress levels at a minimum for those behind the steering wheel.

The (not-so) difficult second chapter

Toyota was always going to face a challenge when it came to providing a sequel to the original Avensis. However, the Japanese manufacturer passed the test with flying colours. Launched in 2003 (source), one of the main selling points about the second generation Toyota Avensis was just how at ease it made drivers feel. This was epitomised by the fact the vehicle came equipped with nine airbags as standard — making it among the safest family cars on the market at the time. Those who opted for a second generation Avensis with a T180 diesel engine also enjoyed the additional benefit of a nimble drive.

The here and now

How could Toyota top a car that is reliable and a successor which is incredibly safe? The solution is simple; go for the economical approach. Unveiled at the 2008 Paris Motor Show before going on sale the following year, every third generation Toyota Avensis other than those with D-4D 150 auto and 180 T-Spirit Tourer engines were able to keep CO2 emissions below 160g/km (Source). The newest variety also captures plenty of attention thanks to its elegant exterior design.

Who knows what the next 6 years holds for the Avensis, we’re excited to see what future models will feature!

Broke With a Beater: How To Maintain an Old Car

You might not be familiar with the term "beater." But in all likelihood, you've owned or driven one in your lifetime. This is the hand-me-down, the junker, the old car that hasn't received an ounce of love in at least a decade. It's the vehicle that's been beat on.

A big difference between those doomed to spend their lives in old, ugly, dented, fuel-thirsty beaters and those who can soon afford better rides is how they care for it. Neglect maintenance and it could lead to a crash, a breakdown or cost money you may not have.

In this article, we'll offer tips on how to keep your old car running safely as long as possible for the least money. You can do a lot yourself, even if you have little mechanical experience.
Prioritize

Owning and maintaining a beater to ensure safety is all about prioritizing your scarce (or tightly held) resources. We've grouped maintenance issues into three areas:

Priority No. 1: Maintain things that could cause your old car to lose control and possibly cause an accident. This includes your car's braking system, tires, steering system and what we'll call "the driver vision system." Spend your money here first.

Priority No. 2: This will include maintenance on things that will leave you stranded or cause other components — such as the engine — to fail. This includes radiator hoses, fuel lines, constant velocity (CV) joints and fan, accessory and timing belts.

Priority No. 3: The third priority will be simply to keep your old car alive. This includes changing the engine oil, transmission fluid and coolant.

Even if your do-it-yourself role will be limited to "inspector," get a repair manual for your vehicle: Manuals cost less than $20 new. You also could get one used or borrow one from the library. You'll also need at least one jack stand and a few tools: Look on craigslist.org or at a thrift store or flea market.

It's No Accident
The cost of an accident — insurance deductibles, lost work days, a traffic citation or increased insurance premiums — would go a long way toward paying for a better vehicle. A wreck can start you on the road toward becoming a lifetime beater driver.

Start by checking the brakes. Most beater owners wait until they hear grinding noises before taking action. Be a bit more proactive. Checking to making sure there's adequate material remaining on the brake pads for disc brakes is a good place to begin. It's also a task that most can do armed with only the car's standard jack and lug wrench and a jack stand. Remove the wheel, and with most disc brakes you can see the pads on either side of the disc. Leaking brake fluid means immediate repairs are required.

Just as doctors draw blood to help determine a person's health, "bleeding the brakes" will say a lot about your brakes as well. The job is only slightly more difficult than checking pad thickness: Consult the repair manual for details. If the brake fluid is dark black and contains bits of rubber, a serious brake job is mandatory. If not, flushing the brake fluid — bleeding the brakes until all the old fluid is expelled and replacing it with fresh fluid — is a cheap way to help the inside of the brake system last longer. Cost: about $12 for a do-it-yourselfer with the right tools and an assistant. Serious brake work requires either a professional or on-site help from an experienced amateur. Prices start at about $40 for a DIYer who only replaces the front brake pads.

Worn out and neglected tires cause more accidents than record-keepers can account for. Though it's painful when you see the credit card statement (about $200 to $400 for four non-performance tires), replace tires sooner rather than later.

Steering and suspension problems show up as uneven wear on the tires or by the way the car steers and rides. Have a professional inspect the system ($40-$75) to see if it's safe to drive, and suggest what repairs are needed.

A government report said "obscured vision" accounted for as many accidents as brake and tire failure combined. It's inexpensive (about $15) and easy to replace windshield wiper blades. Old cars' headlight lenses are often pitted or yellowed. A less used pair from a local or online auto recycling center (a.k.a. junkyard) or eBay could run anywhere from $50 to $150.

Stranded With No Way Home

Most beater cars need every hose replaced, and it's likely the heater hose, which carries hot engine coolant to a small radiator inside the car (about $30) has never been changed. For example, I used to drive a $450 Subaru as a winter beater. A heater hose sprung a leak one night on a deserted road next to a partially iced-up river. I ended up having to creep out to the edge of the ice to fill a plastic milk jug with water for the radiator. On another beater, I replaced all the hoses except for a tiny, difficult-to-access one on the water pump, only to discover how quickly all the coolant will blow through such a tiny hole. This public confession is intended to show that neglected maintenance can be dangerous for both people and engines.

Problems like this are avoidable, and there are often warning signals. It's almost certain that those who suffer car fires ignored the aroma of gasoline: Your choice is to replace an inexpensive fuel line or risk a fire. And if you hear squealing, it's likely a fan or accessory belt that should be replaced. A new belt is less than $20. The difficulty of the job varies greatly among vehicles. If you don't have the work done and the belt breaks, you'll be the one squealing.

Many old cars have engine timing belts that should be changed every 60,000 miles. This costs about $500 or more and is a not-for-amateurs task. Some engines — notably Hondas — suffer serious damage when the timing belt breaks, while others just stop running.

Owners of front-wheel-drive beaters need to listen for signs of a failing CV (constant-velocity) joint: usually a clicking noise that first appears during tight turns. Look at the rubber boots around the CV joint: Missing or boots torn long ago likely means the CV joint probably needs replacing. A professional repair can cost $300 per axle, but an experienced amateur can do it for about $80 per side.

To help make sure your old car will start, clean corrosion from the battery terminals with baking soda mixed into water and apply an anti-corrosion chemical (about $4). Inspect the battery cables (about $20 a pair) and their connections.

Another important note: If you've recently acquired a beater, you should have its oil and oil filter changed, (a $20 to $40 cost for DIYers). Have the automatic transmission fluid flushed and the filter changed. (I recommend paying a professional do to it, about $150.) Change the radiator coolant once a year (about $8).

Time To Dump It?

There's no easy answer to the question of when to get rid of your beater car. Some argue that shelling out $2,500 for a replacement transmission tops going further into debt to get another car. Besides, if you buy another used car that's less of a beater, it might soon need a $500 timing belt.
Don't sell just because you've recently been forced into a major repair. Since specific models tend to suffer identical problems, you get an idea of other big expenses that might be on the horizon by asking owners of similar vehicles on the Edmunds' Forums, or quizzing a mechanic who specializes in your make. Those who own expensive-to-repair European beaters should bail out sooner.

One way to find out if you can dump your beater is to determine the payments for the vehicle you'd like to buy and then start putting that amount into a savings account every month.

Beater Knowledge Can Pay Off

Knowing how to keep a beater car running as long as possible will save you money, particularly if you do it yourself. Sometimes there are other perks as well. I once met a young woman whose manual-transmission beater had problems with its clutch-actuating mechanism. This tough old car was built before clutch interlocks, so I taught her how to start it in gear and shift without using the clutch. The payoff? She eventually married me.

Meet Sanyu & Carol, Sales Persons BE FORWARD Uganda Office

How to change a car tyre

Be prepared

• Keep a small plastic sheet, a pair of gloves to protect your hands and a torch in your car.
• Always make sure the spare is inflated - check it regularly - the jack is in the right place and that you read the car manual.

Instructions for changing a car tyre

Check out the gear in your car: make sure that your spare tyre and tools are in good condition. Do not attempt to change the tyre if they're not. Make sure that your personal safety will not be compromised. Be seen: safety clothing (if you have any) and turn on your hazard lights!
Right, here's how to change your car tyre:

1. Block the wheels on the side not being lifted. Make sure no one's inside. Apply handbrake and put the vehicle in park (if automatic) or in gear (if it's a manual).
2. Take off the wheel cover.
3. Loosen the wheel nuts with the wheel wrench while the vehicle is on the ground. If the nuts are too tight to loosen by hand, you may need to apply pressure to the wheel wrench with your foot. If you do need to stand on the wrench, ensure it is in the horizontal position for your own safety.
4. Put the jack together and place it on firm ground, as flat as possible. Every car is different and you can do a bit of damage if you put this in the wrong location - it needs to go in the reinforced area of the sill (if it's a sill jack). The sill is the body section below the base of the door openings.
5. Slowly raise the vehicle.
6. Remove the nuts and remove the wheel, pulling towards you with both hands.
7. Lift the new wheel. Read the manufacturer's instructions if using a space saver. These are a temporary tyre and are not meant to be driven long distances or at speeds over 80km/h.
8. Replace the wheel nuts, making sure these go on the right way, taper towards the wheel. Tighten snugly.
9. Lower the car, then tighten them properly - standing on the wrench handle with it in the horizontal position to give a light bounce, if you had to stand on it to loosen them. If you over-tighten the nuts you can warp the brake components, but not to tighten them enough is dangerous.
10. Replace the wheel cover or hubcap.
11. Take the wheel to a tyre shop for repair or replacement.

When you've finished kneeling on your plastic sheet, use it to protect your boot from the dirty tyre. If you have a space saver, do not travel faster than 80 km/h and get the punctured tyre fixed as soon as possible.

Changing tyres on tricky car models

Some models do not have studs extending from the hub to hang the wheel on. Instead their wheels have centring flanges with small pins. The tool kit includes a longer pin which screws into a bolt hole. Lifting the wheel onto this lines it up perfectly.
To prevent theft, many alloy wheels have locking nuts, which won't fit a standard socket. When buying a car with alloys, check for a locking nut and the correct socket.

To fit a heavy wheel

1. Roll it close to the hub.
2. Tuck your left foot under its left side and insert the thin end of the wrench under the right.
3. Balancing the top with one hand, use the wrench as a lever to lift the tyre slightly.
4. When close enough, use the wrench to lever the tyre up. It'll help if you haven't jacked the car up too far.

Should you fit new tyres on the front or rear axle?

Every time we encounter questions on this subject it causes heated debates. Opinions differ for various reasons and most of these explanations, for or against, have some merit.
The tyre industry states when replacing two tyres on your vehicle to fit them on the rear axle. Their reasoning is fitting new tyres to the front can result in oversteer and loss of control especially when braking or swerving sharply.
In the past we mechanics used to believe fitting newer tyres to the driving wheels was the right thing to do. Front wheel drive cars had new tyres fitted to the front and rear wheel drive vehicles had them fitted to the rear. It sounds logical as most of the wear will occur on the drive axle. Most people also believed a front wheel driver had better handling with new tyres on the front.
If your tyres are in such poor condition that this is a big cause for concern, then you probably should be replacing all four tyres.

How to Check the Fluids in a Car

Steps

1. 
   1
   Your owner's manual tells you when fluids must be checked, but this is just the minimum to keep your warranty in effect. Mark your calendar, or just check the fluids frequently.
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2. 2
   Park the car on a flat, level surface and set the parking brake.
3. 
   3
   Open the hood (read the link in order to do this safely).
4. 
   4
   Check the motor oil. The oil should probably be checked after the car cools down for an hour or so, so that oil in the return galleries, cylinder head valleys, etc. is drained down so you don't get a false reading. Locate the oil dipstick (use the owner's manual). Hook a finger through the loop and pull the dipstick all the way out, releasing any clips that might be holding it in place. Use a paper towel or rag to wipe the dipstick clean so that you will have a clear reading. Insert the dipstick into its opening and push it firmly all the way back, as far in as it will go. Pull it out all the way, this time reading the oil level. When you are done, replace the dipstick in its opening.
   • The dipstick has markings on it indicating a range for acceptable oil level (usually notched, dimpled, or scribed). Double check the markings you see against the owner's manual. If the oil level is too low, appropriate motor oil must be added before the car can be driven. With a new car, take it to the dealer's service or parts department; have them show you how to add oil, and buy the oil and funnel their mechanics use. With an older car, take it to an auto parts store; they will walk to your car, show you where to add oil, and recommend what to buy. Since some engines consume more oil than others, adding oil can also become a frequent task.
     
   • Look at the color of your oil, too. Clean engine oil is a clear, golden color. Dirty engine oil is black or brown. If yours is dark, have a look at your car's records to see when the oil was last changed. Darker engine oil can still run a car just fine, so go by the schedule more than by the color.
   • You should also change engine oil according to both mileage and time. Consult your owner's manual for the proper intervals. Even if you don't drive the recommended number of miles, plan to change your oil about once every six months. Just sitting in the driveway, your car's oil can break down and become less effective. Change your oil more frequently than the recommended schedule if your car gets severe use.
   • Repeated, pronounced loss of engine oil can indicate a leak in a gasket or that your car is consuming oil. Keep a watchful eye in your driveway under where you park. Also look for signs of oil leaks on the outsides of the engine, and if you see any oil or consistently consume oil, take your car to a mechanic and explain what you have seen.
   • If the oil looks milky or foamy, it may be contaminated with coolant, and should be checked by a mechanic. This condition could indicate a blown head gasket or other serious problems.
5. 
   5
   Check the transmission fluid (if you have an automatic transmission, see Tips for manual). This is usually done with the engine running and fully warmed up, either in Neutral or Park, depending on the make and model. It will be the second of two dipsticks. As with the oil, locate it, pull it out (releasing any clips), wipe it off, push it all the way back in to the bottom of its travel, then pull it out and read the level. Again, look for a level between the two marks on the dipstick.
   • This transmission fluid is reddish because it's reasonably fresh. Transmission fluid does not need to be changed as frequently as oil, but it does occasionally need to be changed. The interval may be as much as 100,000 miles (160,000 km) in newer cars; consult your manual to be sure. If yours looks brown, black, or burnt or its appearance suggests that it didn't come out of a bottle lately, consider replacing it. Transmission fluid lubricates the transmission, your car's gear system.
     
6. 
   6
   Check the brake fluid. Consult your manual for the location, or look around for a plastic reservoir such as this one labeled brake fluid. If your reservoir looks like this one, you can read the level of fluid right through the plastic. Wipe dirt off the outside, if you need to. It might help also to jostle the car gently on its suspension with your hip, hands, or knee, so that the fluid level jiggles a bit. If you still can't see it, take the cap off and look in.
   • Cars should not consume brake fluid. Low brake fluid can indicate either a leak in the brake line or worn brake surfaces. If your brake fluid is low, have the car checked to find out why. A car with low brake fluid or leaking brake fluid could fail to stop.
7. 
   7
   Check the power steering fluid. This will generally also be a plastic reservoir. Read it through the walls, as you did with the brake fluid, by opening the lid and pouring more of an appropriate power steering fluid in. There may be two pairs of lines, one for a hot engine and one for a cold engine. Read the one that is appropriate to the current condition of your car.
8. 
   8
   Check the coolant. Be sure the engine has cooled down, otherwise scalding water could spray out as you open the reservoir! The coolant will most likely be in a reservoir up front, near the radiator.
   • Cars are designed to operate with antifreeze as coolant, not water. Antifreeze is a mixture that has a lower freezing point and generally, a higher boiling point than water. If you must replenish your coolant, go buy a bottle of the correct stuff.
   • Read the label on antifreeze. Some formulations are intended to be mixed half and half with water; others should be poured in at full strength. The antifreeze label will tell you which type you have.
9. 
   9
   Check the windshield washer fluid.
   • Wiper fluid won't affect the performance of your car, but this is what comes out when you use the sprayers to clean your windshield while driving.
   • Washer fluid that's formulated to clean off bugs and other road grime is inexpensive, so it's worth getting the real thing, though topping off with a little water will do in a pinch.
   • There is generally no harm in having washer fluid low. You will naturally use this up as you drive your car and clean the windshield. Simply refill it before it gets completely empty.
   • If you are expecting very cold weather, be sure to use washer fluid that won't freeze in low temperature. Wiper fluid with a low freezing point is specially marked as such.
   
   
   10
   Check your tire pressure. It's not one of the fluids under the hood, but it is essential to the efficiency and safety of your car. You should check your tires even more often than your engine fluids. While you're there, check the tread on your tires.

FLASH BACK: BE FORWARD 25 Car Xmas Campaign

BE FORWARD CO., LTD, a used car exporter based in Japan, is running a social media campaign on Facebook called "BE FORWARD 25 Car Xmas Campaign".

The campaign starts on November 1,　2013 and ends on December 25, 2013. BE FORWARD's Facebook Fans can enter the contest with a chance to win one of twenty five cars to be given away every day from December 1, 2013 through December 25, 2013.

BE FORWARD sponsored two previous campaigns on Facebook with great success. "Our last two campaigns were amazing! We did photo contests on Facebook and received so many great entries," said Hironori Yamakawa, President of BE FORWARD.

"During the previous contests we gave away a single car each time. This year we wanted to do something much bigger and that is why we chose Christmas as a theme: 25 cars, 25 winners, over 25 days! And I felt it would be great to get the BE FORWARD staff involved by choosing 25 of them as judges to pick the daily winners."

Entrants to the "BE FORWARD 25 Car Xmas Campaign" must simply "Like" BE FORWARD's Facebook Fan Page, fill in the entry form and answer the question "Why should you win a car?" for a chance to win. The winners will be chosen daily from December 1, 2013 through December 25, 2013 by twenty five staff members at BE FORWARD.

The judging of the winners by BE FORWARD staff will be based on the stories they enter about why they should win a car. Voting is allowed by other Facebook Fans on the entries, but the twenty five BE FORWARD staff members will make the final judgments on the daily winners.

"We are very, very excited about this campaign," said BE FORWARD's Chief Of Global Marketing, Billy Sekido. "We are always trying to 'Move Forward' and 'Keep Smiling' at BE FORWARD, and the chance to know what makes people around the world 'think they should win a car' makes this campaign so much fun for everyone!"

The cars given away during the contest will be valued at a maximum of 2,500 USD each. The winners will be able to choose their prize from available BE FORWARD stock that meets the requirements of the winners' country of residence.

Additionally, BE FORWARD will cover the shipping charges to the nearest port of the winners free of charge. The winners will be responsible for any additional charges or fees within their own country.

To enter the "BE FORWARD 25 Car Xmas Campaign" for a chance to win and to find full details, please visit <a href="https://www.facebook.com/beforwardjpugcadamenterprisesltd">BE FORWARD's Campaign Page</a>

Why has demand reason vehicles from Japan ?

Why has demand reason vehicles from Japan?...The vehicles of japan are preferred worldwide for it's high quality. Japanese cars are subject to the stringent emission standards that promote the sale of cars earlier than in most countries. Japanese cars are very economical. These and many other reasons cause that the Japanese cars are of preference in the world-wide market.BE FORWARD UGANDA

INCOTERMS

The "FOB"", which is a term used on International Trade to determine the exporter's and also the importer's obligations . These terms are known as "incoterms" , and this is the abbreviation of International Commerce Terms.

The incoterms are built by the International Chamber of Commerce.

The most common used incoterms are:

*FOB ( Free on Board ) sum of all the expenses until the port of embarkation, including the merchandises.
In the case of an exporter of cars, it would be : Car, Taxes, Procedures, shipment of documents, Transport until the port of embarkation (it varies according to the car type and the distance between the auction's place to the port), commission of the exporter of cars ,and this gives us the FOB price.

Exemple :


Car Price +
Procedures
Transport to the Port of Embarkation
Shipment of Document
Taxes
Commission of the Exporting Company

---

=FOB


*The C&F or CFR ( Cost & Freight ) Freight to the port of destination

Exemple :

Freight +
FOB

---

=C&F


*And the CIF price ( Cost, Insurance & Freight ) is sum of C&F plus Insurance.

Exemple :

Insurance +
C&F

---

=CIF